Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
